Sizing up the Situation

“ I’m not an 16! I’ve never been a 16 in my life! I won’t do it- that’s ridiculous! I’m getting the 10. I’m going to lose 10 pounds, that should take care of it.” Yikes! If I were writing a wedding wear horror flick, this would be my opening scene. This bride/maid is headed for disaster. Ordering your dress the wrong size, especially if it’s too small, can be a huge headache. Most gowns can’t be let out, and if they can it’s by a miniscule amount. Special order dresses cannot be returned, and ordering a new one takes time and money. At best, you’re going to look very un-classy in your too- tight gown, or if it won’t zip you may need to have the dress altered using extra fabric, which you may or may not be able to get to match. If the dress is far too large, in most cases it can still be altered but may require major restructuring. This can be spendy, and sometimes taking it in too much will change the look of the dress. Do not put yourself in any of these very avoidable situations! Check out these 10 Do’s and don’ts and avoid some of the major mistakes brides/maids often make when selecting their size.


DO’s:
1) DO get measured by someone who knows what they’re doing. Many bridal salons will give you a complimentary bust, waist, and hip measurement even if you’re not ordering your dresses there. If you read the size chart correctly but don’t have correct measurements, it’s not going to do you a lot of good. Accurate measurements are essential.
2) If you aren’t able to have a professional measure you for some reason, DO find some guidelines to follow. Follow this link to the guidelines posted on Netbride: http://netbride.com/measure-dress.php. One common mistake people make is in measuring the waist- it’s not necessarily where the top of your pants hit, but rather the NARROWEST part of your waist, usually called the “natural waist” which may be at or even slightly above the belly button.
3) DO consider the silhouette of the dress when choosing a size. If the dress is A-line or has a full skirt, you may have some leeway in the hip area and not need to go up a size just for the hip measurement if it’s only off by a small amount.
4) DO examine the manufacturer’s size chart carefully, especially if you’re choosing your own size. Every manufacturer sizes their dresses differently, and so you MUST go by their size chart. The dresses are cut to the chart (with an allowable variance of about a half an inch to an inch depending on the designer). Look at the measurements (with the cut of the dress in mind) and go from there. Most people are between sizes, and will have to have the dress altered even if the dress lines up to their measurements perfectly, so go with what you know is going to fit, not what you think you can get away with altering the least. Remember, you can take it in but you probably can’t let it out, so weigh the risk carefully.
5) DO try on a sample whenever possible, or a similar dress from the same designer. This can help you get an idea of what size will work, how the dress feels, etc, and can help you compare sizes.

DON’TS
1) DON”T order a dress that’s far too small and plan on losing weight. Most people do not lose weight evenly, things can happen to interfere with your weight loss plans, and it’s very hard to predict your own inch/ weight loss even if you know you’re going to work hard. If you’re planning to lose weight, your best bet is to order a dress that’s the correct size for where you’re at now, and then make sure that it can be altered down in every area you may need. You can take many gowns in up to 4 inches (that’s 2 inches on each size) without changing the look of the dress. If you’re worried, talk to your seamstress.
2) DON’T just go by your street size, or be upset if you’re several sizes larger in a bridal gown than you would normally be in street clothes. This can happen for many reasons that have nothing to do with you being fat, I swear on Chanel. Try to think of the size number as meaningless, because it really is. The measurements are what matter. Sometimes I think we should change the sizes from a number to name and that would help. Then I could say, “Ok, your bust is a 38, your waist is a 32, and your hips are a 40. That puts you between a Genevieve and a Doris. The Doris is an inch too small in the bust, so you’d be safer going with the Genevieve.” No problem. Whereas if I say “ Ok, you’re between a 14 and 16…” I may set off a meltdown for a girl who’s normally a 10 in street clothes. (I just made all these numbers up, incidentally.)
3) DON’T order a much larger size just for your hip measurement if you’re buying an a-line dress or empire. Let’s say your bust and waist are in a 10, but your hip measurement is at an 18. (Depending on the designer, that could be a difference of 4-6 inches in every area between the 10 and 18). If you order the dress in an 18, you may still be able to take it in, but you’re getting to the point where the bust and waist are so large that it might look a little off. You might not want the 10 if your hips are 5 inches bigger than the measurement for a 10, but you don’t need to go all the way up to an 18 either.
4) DON’T freak out if the dress comes in and is slightly larger or smaller than you feel it should be. There can be at least half inch of variance, for some designers up to an inch, in either direction from the size chart and that’s normal and not a flaw in the dress. It shouldn’t cost more to alter the dress 2 inches vs. 1 inch, so while it’s nice to get the dress and feel like it fits decently right away, in reality it often doesn’t make a difference because you were going to need it altered anyway to have that great snug fit. If you feel the dress is off by more than ½ inch or so, contact the company you purchased the dress from right away so that if the dress is sized incorrectly they can help you. If you wait too long there might not be anything they can do- everything takes time with special order gowns.
5) DON’T be afraid to ask questions or ask for help. Knowledge is power- in this case the power to save yourself a lot of stress over your dress.

Don't Falter When You Alter!

If you’re like 99% of the population, your wedding wear is going to need a little help in order to fit like it should. The alterations are the final touch needed to take a dress from pretty to perfect and can make or break your look. I can’t tell you how often I’ve cringed at photos of bridal parties, especially brides, in poorly fitted gowns- it just looks sloppy and really ruins the effect. Trust me, you do not want to spend a pretty penny on a gown and then have it look like you bought it in the bargain bin because it doesn’t fit. (If you DID buy your gown in the bargain bin, get it fitted right and it’ll look like a million bucks!) Below are some things every bride/maid should know before she steps into that seamstress’s shop and sends her dress under the scissors.

1) Pick someone with EXPERIENCE ALTERING BRIDAL ATTIRE. Not all needlepersons are created equal in this area. I don’t care how many outfits your Aunt Fanny has sewn by hand or how good your mom’s friend’s cousin is with her machine, you need someone who can alter a gown someone ELSE has made and deal with all the delicate fabrics, boning, and beading. It is better to pay a little more than run the risk of ruining your gown. Asking around is usually the best way to find someone- talk to your friends and look at their pictures too.
2) Speaking of payment, you should be charged by the job, not by the inch. This is the way most seamstresses operate, but always check. What can make a difference in price is embellishment or if the dress requires complex restructuring. If the dress has a lot of embellishment (around the hem for example) that must be removed before the alteration can be made and then reattached afterward, that’s more work and will usually make the price higher.
3) Here are some price ranges from a bridal alterations establishment located in a retail space in Minneapolis. Prices are going to vary around the country but this should give you some idea of what you can expect. You may be able to find cheaper rates if you go with someone who works out of their home and doesn’t have to pay rent, but remember, go for experience!

Wedding Gowns: Hem:$75-$175, Take in Sides:$50-$80, Take in Zipper:$60-$100, Shorten Sleeve/Raise Shoulder: $25-$50, Press:$50-$80.

Bridesmaids: Hem:$35-$75, Take in Sides:$30-$50, Take in Zipper: $30-$50, Shorten Sleeve/Raise Shoulder: $30-$50, Hem: $15.

4) Leave yourself at least a month for alterations, possibly more depending on whom you’re working with. Call ahead and find out how far in advance your seamstress wants to see you, how much time she thinks it’ll take, etc. Different times of year are busier than others
5) If you’re a bridesmaid, find out from the bride what your hem length should be. For floor length gowns, most girls wear the gown as long as they can without tripping- the hem is an inch or so off the ground. For tea/knee length dresses find out if she wants it below the knee, mid calf, etc.
6) Strapless gowns should be fitted quite snugly through the bust and waist. I hear so many people say, “I don’t want strapless, it’ll be falling down the whole time.” Not if it fits correctly! Too many people don’t have their dresses taken in enough and in that case, yes, it will fall down. But if it’s fitted correctly (and that means as snug as it can without interfering with your breathing or having the top edge of the bodice dig in to your flesh) your body is going to hold it in place without you having to worry about it. You can always have some spaghetti straps made from your hem fabric if the dress doesn’t come with optional straps (and many do), but you shouldn’t need them if the gown fits properly.

Silhou-what?

If I had a nickel for every time I've been asked "What type of dress do you think will look best on me?" or "What type of dress is the most flattering?" I could easily retire. There are no hard and fast rules, and the best way to proceed is usually to try a variety of styles so that you can determine what cut YOU think looks and feels the best and then work on finding a dress in that silhouette with the perfect details. However, here are somethings you may want to consider.

1) It is very hard to go wrong with a strapless A-line. There's a reason it's been the most popular silhouette for years now.

2) Vertical lines tend to elongate. If you are petite, a gown with princess lines or an empire waist can give you some height. Narrower skirts will also help.

3) If you are self conscious about a particular area of your body, pick a gown that balances out that area or draws the eye elsewhere. For example, if you have broad shoulders, a strapless a-line gown will both balance the width of your shoulders with the width of the skirt as well as draw the eye toward the center of your torso. A cap sleeve is going to draw they eye to the shoulder and emphasize that area. (This can be a plus if you're trying to balance out your hips) A halter will also draw the eye away from the shoulders toward the
center of your torso.

4) V's are slimming and lengthening. Period.

5)Bustier girls may want to try a drop waist to add length to their torso, or also something more fitted through the hip and flaring out at the bottom for balance.

6) In addition to cut, be aware of fabric. Anything flimsy like chiffon or charmeuse will in general be less forgiving. Satin and taffeta have more structure and won't be as clingy.

7) Remember that YOU are the best judge of what looks good on you. You are going to be the one who spends the day in the dress, keeps the pictures for years, etc. If you're short and you absolutely love a gown with a huge pouffy skirt, it's not going to make you look any taller, but who cares? Go with what you love and feel fabulous in and you will not regret it!

-Nic the Bridal Chic